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October 16, 2009

Rockingham

Filed under: Australia, Cycling, Uncategorized — Tags: , — @ 7:31 am

The cycling trip commences! I collected my bike a few days ago from Grace Removals near Perth Airport (when I finally found it). When I realized where I had to collect it from, I moved to a caravan park nearby because I wasn’t sure what state everything would be in when it arrived: would they let me unpack it onsite or would I have to hire a taxi van? etc.


A picture of Naomi at Woodmans Point so you don’t get bored of all the text

To get to the depot, I had to ask a friendly looking gentleman with an enormous … well, I think it was a dog of some kind. I asked for directions and he ummed and aaaahd and then said: “Ah, yes! You need to go over the Merry Go Round…”

I take it from where he was pointing he was referring to the Roundabout. I have to admit that I didn’t have high hopes for the rest of the conversation.

“… and”. Then he stopped and drew my attention to his “dog”. It had me in its sights. It was focused on me like a laser beam, not moving at all. Staring. Ready to pounce. Drooling from the mouth, it’s left top lip occasionally twitching.

The gentleman said: “He’s hungry.”

I see.

He then gave me the rest of the directions and I was about to leave when his “dog” lurched forward towards me. The owner pulled it back and said to it in a stern voice: “No No No. Not him!… (chuckle)”.

I see.

You scary, scary man.

Glad to be going in the opposite direction to that thing he had on a lead, I eventually arrived at the depot. The bike box was in mint condition: it looked like it did when it left Englandistan a few months ago. No scuffs, no broken edges, no holes, no tears: nothing. They even wheeled the box out the right way up. Contrast that with the UK postal companies: unsure of which is the right way up, they endeavour to try all orientations during transit! Anyhow, I’ve nothing but praise for Excess Baggage International and Grace Removals for sorting this out and getting it to the right place in one piece in immaculate condition. Also, thanks to Simon, an old colleague (or should that be ex-colleague?! Or should that be ex-old-colleague?! hehe) for letting me use his address to satisfy all paperwork issues. Really: exceptional service from Excess Baggage International. To add icing to the cake, they even let me empty the box at the depot and they discarded all packaging. Can’t say fairer than that!


Another pretty picture from Woodmans Point

Right up until the last moment I didn’t know which way to start my trip: half of the people I talk to say “go down the coast” and the other half say “go through the country”. When I arrived at the junction to Tonkin Highway the traffic lights were on green so I turned right and went towards Freemantle on the coast. The first few hours were on highways but it’s clear from the signs that cyclists are allowed to use the shoulder when there is one. Highways you can cycle on over here: Freeways you can’t. It’s clear they are making an effort to put cycle shoulders and crossing points for all cyclists on the Highways: this is good news!

I managed to get to a place called Bull Creek from where a cycle route runs from Perth right the way down to Rockingham parallel to the Freeway. Although Perth sprawls, they have cycling routes all over the place (try finding a map with them all on though: good luck with that) and are building more: where they don’t, many of the paths are “dual-use” where you can amuse yourself by whizzing past very old ladies at high speed without any warning (joke). After asking for confirmation that I was going in the right direction to Cockburn Road – which, as I was corrected after asking directions, is pronounced Co-Burn Road – it was a very pleasant two hours down to the caravan park at Woodmans Point on Cockburn Road.

Cycling with all that weight was easier than I thought: fair do’s, there’s not a lot of hills in Perth, but I was expecting it to be much harder than it was. Or perhaps it’s just the bike handles like a dream. I just hope it stays that way because as soon as I have to adjust a gear cable, a brake or some other part of the bike: it’ll never be the same again!

I spent the first ten days in Perth being ill so I didn’t get to see much. Yesterday, instead of continuing the trip, I spent the day cycling near Woodmans Point and around Coogee Beach. Rather pleasant!


Various pictures around Woodmans Point and Coogee Beach. And a lizard sunning itself on the cycle track (it turned at the exact moment I took the shot).

Right up until departure time, I lived in a delusional place, convinced that somehow I would be able to take my hiking poles and Berghaus Bioflex along with me on the cycling trip. As artistic as I could get with my packing, I couldn’t manage it. So I gave them to a couple of Scots at the campsite. To be honest – after hiking in Europe for three months, I think it will be a VERY LONG TIME before I do any more self-supported trekking anyhow!!!

Fully loaded, this is what Naomi looks like:


Appalling picture taken with the sun behind me this morning.

Although it looks a lot I am assured it’s not: in theory, it can carry over 50 kilos of luggage on the back (and I’m nowhere near that). I am not a hefty guy either and the wheels normally carry much heavier people and much heavier loads over appalling roads. I hope the the spokes agree! That’s about the only part of any bike I”ve owned that I haven’t had to repair: the benefit of having owned a GT Aggressor from Halfords in the UK in the past is that everything breaks and you get reet good at fixing stuff!

That said, the loaded bike is fekin’ heavy and it’s hernia-inducing to lift it back up.

After reading the Thorn Users Manual that came with the bike, I figured it would be prudent to have the bike checked over and a few things tightened up / checked before I committed to the isolated routes. So today, in Rockingham, I visited KD Cycles. I really wanted feedback on the threadless headset: how tight should it be? The allen key was well loose when it arrived. Is that normal? I tightened it anyway figuring (perhaps incorrectly) I wouldn’t damage anything unless I made it silly-tight. The book goes to great lengths to tell you not to overtighten it but doesn’t actually give you a torque value!

Anyhow, the mechanic at the shop reset it, convinced me nothing was damaged, and sent me on my way.

He did the work for free (!) so I thought it would be polite to spend some money at his shop: I did. I bought a wireless Cycling Computer so now I’ll know how far I am from a Roadhouse when I run out of water and die of thirst.

Cycling here is an absolute pleasure. The weather is perfect, the roads are wide and the coastal scenery is spectacular. There is nothing I would rather be doing in my life right now than this!

Next (shorter!) update in a few days.

L8r!

October 1, 2009

Perth, Australia

Filed under: Uncategorized — Tags: , — @ 7:26 am

Spending the final three weeks in Lauterbrunnen was a superb end to the European leg of the trip. A week of it was with a friend I used to work with (Andrea) who, like myself, has a tendency to stop at every restaurant and mountain hut along the way for cake and coffee. It was a good week!

However. Europe was getting cold. The nights were drawing in. The mornings were darker for longer. The best of the summer was behind me. So I brought forward my flight and am now in Australia.

But first up it has to be said: it was a privelege to be fit enough, and god damned minted enough, to spend three months hiking in Europe. I feel lucky to be able to have done that. It was definitely hard but enjoyable in a masochistic kind of way. As time passes, the memories seem to become more pleasant and rose-tinted.

Strange, that is!

My only regret is that I did not push on after entering Switzerland and get all of the way through to Lauterbrunnen… it would have only taken another two weeks. Oh well.

I’ve spent the last week in Perth sleeping and fighting off a cold, sore throat and chest infection that’s finally come through after teasing me for a few days in Europe. Being paranoid++, I was concerned my sinuses would stodge up mid-flight and then explode on descent but nothing that exciting was destined to happen.

Wandering through the business district, my nose dripping like a tap and leaving a snail trail behind me whilst I tried to sort out my banking and tax number with a pulsating headache wasn’t pleasant but now: all of my paperwork is sorted out. I am now 100% Legal and Employable in Australia. Easier than I thought! Perth at this time of year can only be described as “uber-pleasant” though. The mornings and evenings are cool and the days are warm. Perth is the sunniest of the state capitals with an average of 8 hours of sunshine every day. It’s a Meditteranean climate. I like it here. A lot. After my jaunt across Aus, I seriously see myself coming back here!

The only downside to Perth I’ve found, if I could call it a downside, is that it’s absolutely full of Chinese, Malaysian, Indonesian, Japanese, Thai, Indian and Vietnamese restaurants. If I live here: man, am I going to be fat!

This will be the last update until I get hold of Naomi again in a few weeks… it’s just dawned on me though: calling the website Havebootswilltrek was a bit short sighted. I now have a bike! I also need to work out what to do with my Berghaus Bioflex, hiking poles and various other bits of hiking paraphernalia. L8r!

June 21, 2009

Via Alpina Red: Six Days In

Filed under: Hiking, Uncategorized — Tags: , , , — @ 5:36 pm

The first days out of Muggia have been very pleasant. Temperatures in the high eighties, with clear blue skies and with nothing more than rolling hills to contend with. Perfect. Whereas the GR20 in Corsica beats you down with Thors hammer as soon as you step out of Calenzana, the Via Alpina is much more gentile and gives you a chance to build up your fitness and develop your blisters at a much slower pace. At the start, it’s more like the English Lake District with rolling hills on a hot summers day than mountain terrain. I am now somewhere around Predjama having just horsed one’s ample arse over the first real mountain along the route: Nanos (or Plesa) at 1200m.

Slovenia Telecom seem to provide *FREE* WiFI access everywhere! Well, in the Hotels at least, where you feel obliged to buy a drink to use their connection. If I had any desire to browse for niche material, this is where I would do it…!

The cost of the Via Alpina has caught me a bit by surprise. So far, there have been no campsites at all along the route which means having to stay in hotels, inns and other hideously expensive establishments. This is particularly galling because I am carrying a tent with me.

And sleeping mat. And stove. And stove fuel. And food. And sleeping bag. Ok, you get the point! My backpack weights in at over 21 kilos, or about three Kate Moss’s.

The way marking for the Via Alpina is confusing or non-existant and it is quite obvious the trail maintainers have a macabre sense of humor. It is not uncommon to arrive at a four way junction with way markings going off in different colors and different shapes in all different directions with no signs telling you where to go or how long it will take to get there. Clearly, having a route across the Alps is not hard enough! I think it’s quite fitting that at the moment I am reading In Search of Schrodingers Cat by John Gribbon, a fascinating book about quantum mechanics. I have just got to the point where they are discussing alternate realities and different worlds.

This is appropriate, given that what the Via Alpina website says, and what the maps say, have no basis in our reality!

Slovenia has crazy place names. HTF do you pronounce CRNI VRH?! When you ask, the locals just look at you as if their livestock have uttered their first words. Then you show them on the map and they pronounce the name… convinced, CONVINCED, that that is how I pronounced it!

Fortunately, like all civilized people everywhere, many of the locals speak English, especially those under 30 so asking for help isn’t that difficult. For those that don’t speak English, lots of arm waving and testiculating (talking bollocks) usually works too.

My next stop and update will be in Lake Bohinj and Lake Bled (with pictures!), two places I’ve wanted to see in Slovenia for years. Infact, they are one of the reasons for doing the Via Alpina, so if they’re rubbish I’ll be gutted and will declare eternal war on this tiny, Slavic nation. The Via Alpina doesn’t go there directly, but it’s only a few hours walk from one of the stages next week. I want to spend about a week there camping, and to hike in the area and to help balance out the budget a bit. A Triglav ascent might be on the cards, too.

You’ll notice there aren’t any photographs of the terrain or the hike thus far. That’s because I can’t be bothered to get my camera out and take photos when I’m hiking up a steep mountainside, my heart beating so hard that my eyes are being forced out of my head and the lining of my lungs being ejected into my mouth. So you’ll have to excuse me on that one!

Slovenia has to be Europe’s most underrated hiking destination. It’s AWESOME!

Tchau!

June 15, 2009

Slovenia: It starts tomorrow!

Filed under: Hiking, Uncategorized — Tags: , , , — @ 4:46 pm

The trip commences tomorrow!

Despite applying Germanic levels of efficiency to my packing list, my backpack is still too bloody heavy. Having to carry a stove, fuel, tent, sleeping mat, bag, food and (my goodness!) a second pair of clothes for three months is going to make this trek hard work. And a lack of clothes means I am going to smell like a donkeys arse on a hot day. But it seems people do traipse across the Via Alpina with this kind of weight: National Geographic contains a blog of some thru-hikers carrying this kind of weight so I am not totally disheartened, especially as I am only planning on doing about half of it.

My aim is to arrive in Central Switzerland some time in September to meet up with a friend, which means I should have done about half of the Via Alpina Red. I expect to spend about three weeks in Slovenia, five in Austria and three in Switzerland.

(This is a belated post, I had it saved as a Draft but forgot to post it :) )

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